At the Gate (2,860m)
It took me twenty-one months to bring myself to the opposite side of the world, away from what is comfortable and familiar, and into the remarkable Khumbu Region of the Himalayas. When my big moment finally arrived, I was ready to bolt at the threshold. I nearly tripped over my excitement as I approached the gate for my ascent. The official beginning of the EBC trek is marked by a stone arch, topped with a statue honoring Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepali woman to reach the summit of Mt. Everest.
Legacy Leavers
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa is an absolute legend. Born into a world of poverty and a patriarchal society, Pasang left a legacy for women climbers around the world that changed everything. After three unsuccessful attempts, she finally reached the glorious summit of Mt. Everest in 1992, but tragically lost her life on the way down. In Nepal, Pasang’s legacy vibrantly lives. As an absolute warrior for equality and justice, she is known for her outstanding courage and strength to overcome obstacles in life, and climbing. Her legacy statue is the first sight on the trek to base camp, and her courageous heart and spirit is certainly guiding those who venture every new spring and autumn.
Ready, Set, TREK!
After a few photos and GoPro videos at the gate, my guide Lamababu and I began our twelve day journey. With fifteen kilos strapped to my back (a fraction of what the Nepali **porters carry up these trails), we entered a lush forest with wildflowers and waterfalls, yaks and mules and other friendly trekkers passing by at either the beginning or end of their journeys. This first part of the trail has several footbridges crossing the famous Dhudkoshi River, which is literally translated as the Milk River. The water is light but flowing rapidly. White waters here are sourced from the melting glaciers. The footbridges above the Dhudkoshi are comprised of steel planks, and about a meter-high fencing with ropes as railings guarding both sides. Herds of yak, mule, and other crossbred livestock carry heavy loads across these footbridges. The carrying capacity is quite large, but there is only just enough room to squeeze by the oncoming trekkers and porters.
**Porters are Sherpas who carry very heavy loads up the trail on their back, often with the support of a headstrap. The load might consist of climbers’ gear, food or other goods to be sold in one of the villages along the route. Porters are probably some of the most humble, hard-working people in the world, and might be as young as fifteen. They might carry as much as 150lbs. on their back all the way up the trails. If they are coming up behind you, be sure to let them have the right-away. Even with all the weight on their back, they are probably going to be faster than you.
The first footbridge I crossed, I made the classic mistake of looking down. I held my breath in anxious fear as I watched the Dhudkoshi furiously roar and sweep branches below me. I think I nearly peed myself, but I tried to play it cool and said nothing. After the first couple of crossings, I let go and relaxed, realizing that it is actually quite safe and there is no need to worry. The views are always special on the footbridges; especially from the village of my first night’s stay: Phakding.
Day 1: Village of Phakding (2,610m)
I reached the village of Phakding in good spirits after a short trek that was mostly downhill (uphill on the way back makes for a lovely last day). There was plenty of daylight left to explore the village and photograph everything. This was the only day on my trek with rain (put on my best waterproof layers and everything), but the rain passed quickly. We ate a lunch of **dal bhat, a traditional Nepali meal, halfway through the day’s trek in a teahouse with other trekkers and their guides, so when I arrived in Phakding a masala tea was enough to tie me over until dinner. At this point I did not experience any altitude sickness, and we actually ended up about 200 meters below Lukla’s elevation.
**Dal bhat is a traditional and very tasty Nepali meal. It typically consists of rice, lentil soup, potatoes, and usually other green veggies on the side as well. It is served on a large platter with the dishes separate, but to be eaten together. Dal bhat is the best to eat at lunch when trekking, especially because most teahouses will serve an extra round of rice, lentils, and potatoes. It is literally two meals for the price of one. Your metabolism will thank you as you make the long journey trekking each day. Eat dal bhat. Just do it.
At this point I did not experience any altitude sickness. I soaked in the surrounding mountains where fresh snow had lightly topped a nearby peak, and the river ran beneath my feet on the footbridge which separated the two main parts of the village. I inhaled the crisp mountain air and gazed into the parts of the forest we would explore the following days. Somewhere up ahead lay Namche Bazar, the Tengboche monastery, Lobuche Peaks, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Nhuptse, and of course, the highest mountain in the world: Mt. Everest (8,848m).
Bundle Up
My body shivered more on the first night in Phakding than anywhere else on the trek. I unrolled my down sleeping bag onto a worn mattress and pulled the duvet over the top. Minimizing my restricting layers of clothing, I climbed inside, but I was FREEZING. I have concluded that this was due to my own personal adjustment between different climates. Since one year prior I was living in the warmest parts of Australia, and traveling around Seoul and Kathmandu at the end of summer. Chasing an endless summer left me with little tolerance for sleeping in the cold, dry mountain air. The good news is that the temperature at night is usually no match for a fluffy, down sleeping bag; my first night was the only exception.
Up The Endless Staircase: Namche Bazar (pt. 2)
Waking up in Phakding I was very eager to continue our journey. I wiggled out of my sleeping bag much warmer than when I snuggled up inside it eight hours before, and dressed myself in several layers. I was preparing for what rumor had it would be the steepest part of the journey – the trail up to the infamous Namche Bazar.